TOOLS FOR SEWING - Part 2 Sewing
Here is what I have found about recommendations for sewing tools, those which we actually need to sew.
2. Awl can be used for marking points on paper and materials. It is usually used to mark positioning points by punching through the paper pattern onto the fabric to indicate, for example, the end of a dart. But in our section it is used for sewing tasks that we can't do with fingertips, for example turning out the corners of hems, ironing darts, feeding fabric for machine sewing and removing stitches.
SEWING tools
1. Thimble is used for hand-sewing. Thimbles can be of different materials: metal, plastic, rubber, leather. I heard that leather thimbles are nice and soft, I am using such thimble. I tried metal and lost it all the time, but if you sew very thick fabric with big needle, may be metal will be more appropriate. Choose by the purpose.
2. Awl can be used for marking points on paper and materials. It is usually used to mark positioning points by punching through the paper pattern onto the fabric to indicate, for example, the end of a dart. But in our section it is used for sewing tasks that we can't do with fingertips, for example turning out the corners of hems, ironing darts, feeding fabric for machine sewing and removing stitches.
3. Thread clipper are used for cutting machine-sewn and hand-sewn threads and removing stitches, etc.
4. Tweezers are used for removing tailor's tacks and basting stitches. Their tips must meet properly.
There are even such with awl together.
5. Seam ripper. Very useful tool for removing machine stitches. Believe me this is much better than any scissors. It works perfectly. Be sure it is sharp. There are many brands, just pick up the most recommended and sharp, this tool will save your time, I could say even your life, may be.
6. Chisel. I am not using it, because I use cutter knife sometimes for it, but chisel is better because you are not afraid to cut your buttonhole longer than it is. You don't want to spoil the whole garment but such little mistake. I am going to buy one.
7. Eyelet chisel is used for opening small, round holes, buttonholes, belt holes and threading holes.
8. Dressmaker's beeswax /or thread beeswax /or thread conditioner is good to prevent the thread friction and knotting. I had such problem when hemming or basting and that's not good, so beeswax will help.
SEWING MACHINES
1. Domestic sewing machine and serger/overlocker are enough for producing garment. They have moderate speed which is easy to control. You also can control the speed with a pedal. They sew straight stitch, zigzag stitch and embroidery stitches. Computerized sewing machines have electronic brain that controls its functions such as sewing speed, thread tension, embroidery stitches and buttonhole making. Read descriptions and recommendations about how to choose your personal sewing machine.
2. Serger (also called in some books overlocker) oversews fabric edges with a double-looped stitch, used for finishing or preventing raw edges from fraying. They are available in three-thread and four-thread types.Four-thread types saw and overlock at the same time.
3. Bobbin and bobbin case. A bobbin is a part of the sewing machine on which the lower thread is wound. Then bobbin is placed in the bobbin case. Both are available in domestic and professional type. Practically all modern domestic and professional sewing machines are created with bobbins. Be sure you have them in your sewing machine kit.
THREADS
Hand-sewing threads
1. Basting threads. Usually cotton. Pick up contrasting colors for your basting. For delicate and silk fabrics there are finer polyester hand-sewing threads and silk basting threads.
2. Button sewing thread. Use special strong thread for attaching buttons. They are also available in polyester and linen.
3. Silk hand-hemming thread. The one which is stronger and heavier than sewing machine thread. it is used for hemming and basting pleats, etc.
4. Tatting thread is used also for attaching buttons, making thread loops and sewing button-holes on woolen fabrics.
Sewing-machine threads
1. Cotton sewing-machine threads.
2. Silk sewing-machine thread.
3. Polyester thread.
4. Silk stitching thread.
5. Overlocking thread.
NEEDLES
1. Sewing-machine needles. They can be broadly classified as domestic and professional and designed for a variety of different fabrics. In general, needles with a flat shank are used for domestic machines and with a round hilt are used on professional sewing machines. The higher the number of the needle, the heavier the needle.
2. Hand-sewing needles. They can be long and short and different numbers too. Their usage depends on the fabric and the sewing method. Modern needles have this written on their package. But you also can have your preferences depending on their eyes and tips. Check their sizes. The larger the number, the finer the needle. some needle kits have several sizes but some are just one size. Check this out when you buy.
Number 6 (heavy) - For sewing button-holes
Number 7 (less heavy) - Heavy fabrics, for basting
Number 8 (even less) - For hemming heavy fabrics and basting standard fabrics
Number 9 (fine) - Hemming and basting standard and delicate fabrics
There are also embroidery needles. The same system: the higher the number, the finer and shorter the needle.
Extra materials
1. Pin cushion.
In Part 3 you can read about Pressing tools and Dress Forms and in Part 1 I wrote about Measuring, Drawing pattern and Cutting tools.
Don't miss!
There are a lot of tools for sewing and tailoring. I'm trying to choose those which we really need in everyday sewing. If you want to sew more professionally, to become a tailor, I am sure you will find great books and professional recommendations. I wish all the best in your achievements!
OTHER PARTS: PART 1, PART 3.
OTHER PARTS: PART 1, PART 3.
